Tussar Silk Saree

The Heritage of Elegance and Nature

Tussar silk, also known as “Kosa silk”, is a unique type of silk known for its rich texture, natural golden sheen, and lightweight feel. Unlike regular silk, Tussar silk is made from wild silk obtained from silkworms that feed on Asan, Arjun, and Sal trees, giving it a distinct texture. These sarees are famous for their earthy tones, natural motifs, and luxurious yet breathable fabric, making them a preferred choice for both traditional and contemporary wear.

History and Origin of Tussar Silk Sarees

Tussar silk has been woven in India for over a thousand years, with its roots in Jharkhand, Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Madhya Pradesh, and West Bengal.

The art of Tussar weaving is believed to have originated among the tribal communities of Jharkhand, where the practice of silk farming and handloom weaving has been passed down through generations.
The silk is wildcrafted, meaning it is harvested from nature rather than being cultivated in controlled environments.
Tussar silk received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Jharkhand, recognizing its authenticity and traditional value.

Types of Tussar Silk Sarees

Pochampalli sarees come in different variations based on weaving styles and materials:

Tussar silk is woven in different regions, resulting in distinct styles and varieties:

1. Bhagalpuri Tussar Silk Saree

Originating from Bhagalpur, Bihar, known as the “Silk City of India”.
Famous for its fine texture, superior quality, and intricate designs.

2. Madhubani Tussar Silk Saree

Features hand-painted Madhubani art with motifs of peacocks, flowers, and mythological figures.
A perfect blend of folk art and luxurious fabric.

3. Kantha Stitch Tussar Silk Saree

Embellished with Kantha embroidery, a form of hand stitching originating from West Bengal.
The intricate designs add a rich, handcrafted appeal.

4. Gheecha Tussar Silk Saree

A variation of Tussar silk with an unfinished, raw texture.
Popular for its rustic, natural appeal and matte finish.

5. Printed Tussar Silk Saree

Features block prints, batik prints, or hand-painted designs.
Ideal for casual and office wear.

Tussar Silk Saree Manufacturing Process

The making of a Tussar silk saree is a labor-intensive process that involves traditional methods of silk farming, dyeing, and weaving.

1. Silk Farming (Sericulture)

Tussar silk is produced by wild silkworms (Antheraea mylitta and Antheraea proylei) that feed on trees like Arjun and Asan.
Unlike mulberry silk, these silkworms grow in forests and are not domesticated.

2. Extraction of Silk Threads

The cocoons are collected from forests and boiled to extract silk fibers.
In some eco-friendly methods, the silk is extracted after the moth leaves the cocoon, known as “Ahimsa silk” or non-violent silk.

3. Spinning and Dyeing

The extracted silk is spun into threads and dyed using natural or vegetable dyes.
Common dyeing techniques include tie-dye, batik, and hand-painting.

4. Weaving on Handloom

The dyed threads are woven on traditional handlooms by skilled artisans.
The weaving process can take weeks or even months, depending on the complexity of the design.

5. Embellishment and Finishing

Some sarees are enhanced with zari work, hand embroidery, or block prints.
The finished saree is washed, polished, and ironed before reaching the market.